Bizzare conditions greeted us when we arrived, no snow in the Coe, N Buttress, Slime Wall, Cueniform were completely hoared up. Erik and I were in the right place, our planned route was in. The weather was sunny and cold (Guerdon Grooves was in, Erik sent Guy Robertson a text/picture).

I led up the first pitch to the belay, the VS, 5a rising above. I had seen this place before, memories of a failed atempt at the Ordinary Route, watching Robin and the tour de force going for the FA of Ravens Edge, I felt quite at home.

Erik started up the VS, 5a, a very steep corner, strenuous, awkward, onto a ledge (Ravens Edge traverses around left), above a buldging crack. He placed a high runner, went for it, desparate, couldn't reach the lump of turf and pull through onto easier ground. He was spent. My efforts were similar, a little fresher, a move higher, still couldn't reach the turf. We had to admit defeat, frustrated at being beat just before the easier ground, isn't this always the case?

Lets do Ordinary Route and salvage the day, Eriks motivation draining, I led through.

At the end of my pitch was another familiar sight, a piece of red tape, an abseil point, mine! On our previous attempt, darkness and uncertainty sent us back down. When Erik arrived the way ahead still wasn't clear, the guide mentioned nothing about a steep, undercut corner, only easily climb up to the big ledge.

Looks like a way around to the right, a series of shallow corners and grooves, I'll give it a go. Enjoyable climbing ensued, gear kept going in, a step right into another groove and again, leading into a big chimney and a belay. When Erik came up his motivation returned as yet again, no mention in the book!

He set up this as dusk was upon us, the warm glow from his LED headtorch casting soft light around his upward movement. Back and foot, much grovelling and energy seen him ontop. This was a hard pitch to follow, glad though that we should be at the top of the cliff (135m according to the guide).

It looked very steep above, still some way to go, a leaning, offwidth crack seemed the only feature to follow. I set off, climbed this with much difficulty, placed a 0.5 Camalot, onto a ledge. My torch beam faintly outlining a narrow ledge going rightwards, nowhere to go above!

I searched for protection, nothing, shit, that looks desparate and I can't see where it leads or any cracks. I shouted down to Erik about the seriousness, I could stand here and await rescue, probably all night, thoughts about my pregnant wife and the child I might never see! Erik was very worried, how is he going to help if it all goes wrong?

I go for it, pray to God 'please be a crack/belay at the end of this', tools dangling, padding along this slopping ledge, crampons grinding through the hoar, 10m and a crack appears, belay! I arrange a few other pieces and take stock, I think the crack goes up, yes!

Erik seconded the offwidth, the Camalot overly placed in Stuarts struggle to stay on, wouldn't budge, little time to fanny about, left it behind. The traverse would certainly have been every bit as runout/serious and were both glad to be standing on the belay, looking at the crack above and gear for the next pitch!

Thankfully, Erik led up onto easier ground and the top of the buttress and soon we were walking off, heading into Broad Gully and the descent back down to our packs. Unfortunatelly this proved to be almost as serious as the way we have previously come, ice coating the rocks underfoot. No chances, several abseils took us to our packs and food and water, I even borrowed his phone and spoke briefly to Lynda before losing reception.

'It might have been better if I hadn't phoned' she'll worry about me driving home this late!' 11.30pm and we've still to walk to the car.

I arrived home around 2.30am, crept into bed and set my alarm.

I got up at 4.30am and headed to work, tired, very contented, still buzzing, the thought of a possible new route on the Buchaille?