Looking past Achnaha Buttress towards Sanna Bay
It was spring 2004, and we were waiting for the days to lengthen into full summer. We were also getting increasingly weary of climbing on the ubiquitous dolerite of the Lowland Outcrops. Having never really had a good look through the recent SMC Glencoe guidebook, something appealed to me...... Ardnamurchan!! Having never been, and looking at the weather forecast for the coming weekend, it looked like a goer. A few phone calls later and Tom & Wendell were roped in (no pun intended!!). Achnaha buttress was the target, with the promise of a dry day and immaculate gabbro.
The drive from the Corran Ferry is approximately 1hr 15 mins, taking the right fork just after Kilchoan (signposted Sanna). The scenic single track road leads over the Ring of Ardnamurchan and just after the croft of Achnaha, a decent sized parking area is reached. Achnaha buttress is a 15 min walk directly north from here.
On reaching the crag, the views out over Eigg, Rhum and the Inner Hebrides were superb. We couldn't wait to get started, so my lead first. Having limited experience of climbing on gabbro, I opted for Soul Searching, a 20m VS, which climbs both tiers of the crag. Now while some of the protection was a bit rattley in the uneven cracks, this was compensated by the security that climbing on gabbro gives, it was like velcro!! The route was very straightforward, although belays can be awkward to arrange after topping out. So far so good, a great start to the day. Toms lead next, and he opted for Coal Mining, a 15m VS which looked a bit more difficult. Needless to say, he cruised it, although in the top section, he veered off right along a crack which looked more difficult than the correct line. Tom, did you ever get round to filing that as a new route or variation finish?
Tom on Coal Mining (Tom's variation) VS 5a
Next up was Wendell, and as he was still nursing a recurrent shoulder injury, he opted for Plocaig Rock, a 25m Severe. Wendell climbed the route without incident, although myself and Tom thought he was having difficulty finding a belay as he seemed to take a while to construct one (unknown to us, Wendell's Canadian military specification belays are legendary - they would hold a battleship!).
Wendell Martin on Plocaig Rock, Severe
My lead again, so I decided to have a go at Coal Mining, withouts Toms variation finish (Photo at top of page). We were really enjoying ourselves by now, the superb friction of the rock was making it a dream to climb. Tom then had a go at Nicht Thochts, a 15m VS 4c, allegedly!! This route seemed far harder than any of the other VS's we'd climbed, not helped by the very spaced and rattley protection. Tom was thankful I'd brought my Tricams!! This route felt more like HVS or possibly even E1 as it was certainly the hardest we'd climbed so far. Wendell decided to attempt a VS, the 15m Complacency. He made a valiant attempt, but his injured shoulder proved too much of a handicap and reluctantly, he backed off. Time for me to have a go at it then. The route climbs both tiers, with the upper half starting with a strenuous move to gain a steep corner. It still wasn't anywhere near as awkward as the sandbag that is Nicht Thochts.
Chris on Complacency VS 4c
Tom then decided to push it a little and have a go at Aberration, a 15m HVS 5a, which again climbed both tiers. Despite a couple of hairy moments on the upper section, which boasted some damp rock, the route was completed without any major difficulties.
Tom on Aberration
So ended our day at Ardnamurchan, a stunning location with superb views seawards, and great climbing to boot. We vowed to go back. And we did.............
We returned that August, the party consisting of myself, Tom, Alan & Sue Pert, Tony Stone and Erik Brunskill. A superb day was had by all.
(23/01/06)