Pathfinder Mountaineering Articles -
Messiah (VII,7)

Author: Stuart McFarlane

Creag an Socach, Beinn Dorain

Back in he winter of 97 was my third season, no commitments, was away most weekends, starting to learn the game!

One Saturday morning in March, after running round my Postal delivery, picked up Scott Muir at Buchanan Bus Station, headed up to Bridge Of Orchy.

We arrived about midday and legged it into the corrie (50 mins) to find excellent conditions.

Standing beneath Messiah it looked ok, It's got some ice on it, I'll get up that!

Scott geared up and headed up the first mixed pitch, climbing steadily, hard to find protection. There was snow and more importantly frozen moss in the corner, I remember thinking if he comes off before the second piece, he'll hit the ground, before the third............!

He finally reached the crux, a hand traverse along a flake, managed to set four pieces under the roof, before going for it. At the end of the traverse was an insitu wire, clipped it and got onto the belay ledge, safe!

Seconding this pitch seamed ok, thin, the frozen moss allowing secure placements, when I reached the hand traverse, off came the dachstiens (the days before fleecy gloves were the norm). My hands quickly got cold holding onto this, dexterity was required though!

A long reach for the turf, whack, left tool in, dangle, match with right, dachies still dangling from wrist loops, up, gloves on.

The next pitch was easy climbing to the ledge beneath the third, 'Hurry up Stuart' said Scott, the cheek of it!!!!

I went up the third, an icey crack in a corner/groove, stacking tools ontop of each other, crampons on rock, then verglas for my left. It was very steep, managed to get a small friend (0 Quadcam, maybe 0.5) in the right wall. The ice now started to get thick enough to stand both feet on, too thin for screws though (I'm sure I got something in though?).

This ice led up to a buldge, placed a drive in Snarg, pulled through and was met by disapointment, it's flat, there's no more climbing left!

We walked back to our packs as darkness was falling, chuffed that we'd managed a route before dark, a proper route, a grade VII, surely it wasn't that hard?

It was snowing heavily now as we drove north to meet friends in the Coe, super ecstatic, chuffed, we did it as I overtook a car going way to slow?? Slow down, there's a bend, touched my brakes, off I skided, down a banking, finally stopping as we admired the sky at night, through my windscreen!!

Both alright, we got out. The car stopped to look, then drove on, leaving us, maybe I was a slight arse, but they should have offered assistance though?

Finally a car did stop heading south, we climbed Messiah and they gave us a lift, ended up staying the night with them, such was our good climb/story.

A few days later, recieved a phone call from Dave McGimpsey, asking about the route we'd climbed (not sure he believed me though at the time) and was such rumoured to have recieved it's fifth ascent in the mags.

(10/06)


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last updated: 28-Nov-2009