Pathfinder Mountaineering Trip Reports -
Ten Days in Rjukan - Day 6 (1st February 2006)

Editor: Chris McDaid

Trevor and Paul had a rest day. The rest of the mob, except for Jim & Erick, headed for the single pitch routes up at Krokan Fellstue. Ian & Davie led Bullen WI3 simultaneously, with Ian taking a steeper left hand variant.


Ian on Bullen

Dougie also had a go on toprope. Chris spent most of the day filming. Stuart then decided to tackle the very fragile looking Fyrstikka WI5.

Stuart - "The first part of the route was straightforward leading up to the upper pillar. I was quite unnerved when I noticed a fracture line above. Plan B, move right into a cave, place an ice screw, rest, delicate axe placements, tap frontpoints gently and go for the top. Enjoyable, delicate, WI5, I'm a happy man"


Stuart on Fyrstikka

Davie then opted to climb Jomfrau WI4.

Davie - "This looked as steep and long as the crux of Blindtarmen (yesterday) so I took a deep breath before starting up it. The ice was hard & brittle, although well featured which allowed bridging up. I reached about 3/4 of the way up where I got a good hook placement in the chandelier ice for my left axe. My right axe was well placed, so I started placing an ice screw. By now I had moved up slightly so my good hook placement pulled out (to my shock & horror!!!). I started to fall, but shocked myself with my reflexes as I grabbed the well placed right axe and saved myself from testing ice screw placements"


Davie on Jomfrau

Ian then decided to have a go at De Kaller Meg Fard M7, a mixed start to Topp, equipped with 3 bolts.

Ian - "With the first bolt clipped from the security of a boulder, moves to clip the 2nd bolt were safely completed without incident. Moving towards the 3rd vital bolt & then to the ice above, well that was a different story. Axe placements took some finding, and the effort wasn't rewarded. For crampons to find secure placements, a better climber than me or an alteration to the laws of physics would have been required. Unsurprisingly, I peeled off, and liked it so much, I repeated the performance". Chris & then Stuart both led Gaustaspokelse WI4.


Ian on De Kaller Meg Fard

While all this was going on, Jim & Erick had gone to the upper gorge.

Erick - "We headed here with Nye Vemorkfoss WI5 in mind. I got my arse kicked. I blame my idol Mickey Mouse for having wasted my time in front of a telly aged 6 when I could have been practising pull ups!! I felt a real weakling as I had to rest on an ice screw. Still managed to get up the route though. The first and last pitches were enjoyable WI3".


Erick on Nye Vemorkfoss

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last updated: 28-Nov-2009