Pathfinder Mountaineering Trip Reports -
Ten Days in Rjukan - Day 7 (2nd February 2006)

Editor: Chris McDaid

Everyone climbing today. Jim & Ian headed to upper gorge & Trappfoss WI4.

Jim - "There was plenty of fat ice around and even Nydelig Glasur (a very thin WI5) looked possible. I played safe and headed for Trappfoss, wisely volunteering to lead the first pitch, consigning Ian to the steep ice of the 2nd pitch. I didn't realise how wise this was until, safely belayed to a massive icicle, I could only offer my condolences to Ian's complaints about the brittleness & steepness of the ice above"


Ian on central crux pitch of Trappfoss

"It was worthy lead and we couldn't relax until 50m, 6 ice screws and a good rest later. Ian was safely ensconced on the big terrace in the middle of the icefall. The last pitch was much much more amenable WI3 climbing, though still hard work due to the toughness of the ice"

Tom & Chris headed to Tjonnstadbergfossen.

Tom - "The route consisted of 4 pitches and I elected to do pitches 1 & 3. The first pitch was at a relatively easy angle but the conditions were quite poor with lots of dinner plating and hollow air filled ice. My Fusion leashless axes are NOT suited to easier ground, nonetheless I made steady progress choosing the line of least resistance & best ice until, after a full 60m, I reached a couple of in situ Abalakovs. Chris soon joined me at the belay and set off on the 2nd pitch. He chose a line that trended slightly left following a depression before moving right and committing to the headwall above. He shouted his surprise and frustration as the only way he copuld get secure axe placements was to really drive his picks home. No place for finesse here, brute strength was the order of the day!! After approximately 50m, he set up a belay below another headwall. We were now in the sun too, bonus!! The 3rd pitch consisted of fragile columns with plenty of opportunity to find hook placements but requiring a copnsidered and delicate approach"


Tom on Tjonnstadbergfossen

"Once the steep section was overcome, I headed for the security of a tree belay, which gave glorious views down and across the Rjukan valley. The third pitch was Scottish like in character and Chris cruised up it, with 100% success on 1st time axe placements. He didn't even bother to place any ice screws. A fine route with contrasting types of conditions and very fine views"

Stuart & Erick had opted for an expedition to Frihetssoyla WI5, high on the hillside above Rjukan.

Stuart - "We went in pursuit of adventure at the cost of a days climbing. The walk in wasn't as bad as expected and sans map & GPS we went in search of our chosen route, to no avail. We thought we were in the right place but who knows? We ended up at the Gausta area and climbed a single pitch WI4 with hard brittle ice, the most insecure I felt on this trip, and I was pleased to reach to belay at the top. A very cold day with good views of the surrounding mountains"

Davie, Trevor and Paul had gone to Krokan Fellstue.

Davie - "Krokan was mobbed as before but luckily we got to Bullen WI3 before the toproping hordes. Trevor shot up it, hooking all the way. After we finished on Bullen, all the quality routes were occupied so we had a frustrating wander about trying to find anything to do. Some Norwegians had set up a top rope on Gaustaspokelse WI4 but left it unoccupied, so we asked one of the foxy Norwegian chicks if we could move it. She was agreeable so I led the route without incident, apart from dropping an ice screw at the top. Paul then led Kjokenntrappa WI4 which was a bit more challenging. Trevor then did a right hand version of Jomfrau WI4 which was on nicely featured brittle and chandelier ice"


Trevor on Jomfrau

"About 3/4 of the way up, his feet both popped at the same time and he saved a fall by a one arm pull up move. No harm done and a good lead"

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last updated: 28-Nov-2009