Pathfinder Mountaineering Trip Reports - Rjukan 3rd February 2006

Ian and Erick had a rest day. Tom, Chris & Dougie headed for the upper gorge.

Chris - "Myself & Tom headed for our year long appointment with Nye Vemorkfoss WI5 (we were forced to retreat the previous year due to the crux pillar being in danger of collapse). Tom led the first pitch effortlessly up to a bolt belay on a nice wide ledge. Time for the defining moment of the trip for me!! After leaving the belay, I traversed horizontally leftwards then down slightly to the foot of the crux central pillar, getting a very cold shower in the process due to the volume of water pouring down from overhead. I stepped up a bit, placed an ice screw at shoulder height and clipped it with a screamer for reassurance. Standing there looking up the vertical ice of the pillar galvanised me into action. I set off and was relieved to find the ice nice and yielding, with almost every axe placement a first time stick".

Chris on Nye Vemorkfoss

"I never really got pumped on the pitch, as I made progress steadily upwards. Placing ice screws would have been too tiring on the vertical ice, so I opted to run it out onto a large flat bay at the top left of the pillar. Deep breath, place an ice screw, job done. The remainder of the pitch was relatively easy and I brought Tom up, who set off up the final pitch. We were well pleased"

Stuart & Jim had also come to the upper gorge and headed for Sabortofossen WI5.

Stuart - "We climbed this in good style, fantastic ice & pretty warm. Jim led pitches 1 & 3, I led pitch 2"

Stuart & Jim on Sabortofossen

"We then climbed Host WI4 to complete a good day out". Dougie was doing a sterling job filming the climbing on Nye Vemorkfoss & Sabortofossen.

Davie, Trevor & Paul had gone to Vemork bridge.

Davie - "We headed to Vemorkbrufossen Ost WI4. The steep groove to the right was brittle but well featured. It was quite a sustained pitch & I thought it was a bit of a milestone for me"

Davie & Paul on Vemorkbrufoss Ost

"Hopefully when we get back to Scotland, grade V scottish ice will be in reach. We then headed for Ost's sister route, Vemorkbrufoss Vest WI5. Trevor led the first pitch in style as ever, then Paul finished the top section off, a WI5 tick for the boys"

Trevor on Vemorkbrufoss Vest

Paul on Vemorkbrufoss Vest

The troops then all headed up to the hairpin to give Dougie a go at Swingfoss WI4. Jim led the route, seconded by Stuart. The rope was then lowered down to Dougie for his big moment.

Jim on Swingfoss

Right on cue, a car stopped to see what was going on. A couple of buxom Norwegian girls were waiting on Dougie to get moving!!! Despite the audience, Dougie climbed the route reasonably well. On his first ever ice climbing trip, he can now claim to have reached WI4 standard, albeit on a toprope.

Dougie on Swingfoss