In November 2005 Stuart Burns and me did a new Winter route that has reminded me of how much ground there still is to climb in Scotland, some of it in very obvious places.
After weeks of cursing Heather and perverse media warnings about the 'coldest winter ever', a good cold week finally arrived in the last week of November (only a month later than normal!). Thank feck.
We had chosen Beinn an Dothaidh for our first route of the season which was a lucky choice. Dawn broke as we passed Bridge of Orchy. As the hill caught the early orange light, we saw it was hoared- up a beautiful solid, pristine white. What a result!
The walk-in wasn't as bad as I'd dreaded, the only pause was to chase the wee fat farm dug away, who had followed us most of the way in from Achalladair. I felt bad for trying to scare it off as it was a nice, friendly wee thing.
We got into the corrie and Burnsie stopped us to point out an obvious groove line to the left of the West Buttress. Stuart told me that this route was 'unclimbed'- it was one he'd had earmarked for a while. That something so obvious had not been climbed struck me as unlikely, to put it mildly. Dothaidh is a very popular crag after all. Stuart however, was insistent, so after gearing up we headed up towards the start.

I got there first and had a look at the first groove. It bulged out to an obvious crux high above with a very thin pencil of ice hanging out the corner. I shouted down the bad news to the man, 'It looks desperate, overhanging. That'll be why it hasn't been done.'

Presently the man arrived at the first stance and had a quick look. He seemed undaunted by the steepness above him. Interesting. The gear came out the ruckies, he racked up and tied on. Before he set off he warned, 'I'm willing to take a fall off this.' I took note, with maybe a wee raised eyebrow. A bold series of moves took him up and left to a small block where the first protection was obtained. He then took a moment to compose himself before committing to the crux. Using his height to his advantage, he did a very wide bridge high over the overhanging groove and then pulled over the bulge with determination and style. It was a great effort. Vintage Burnsie!

Stuart Burns leading the first crux of Thor.

I followed on, enjoying the technical moves and eagerly took the rack. The next pitch was mine and despite the narrow chimney having looked tough from the corrie, it was actually an easy lead and took hardly any time at all. It felt great to be out trying new routes again, and to be moving quickly on mixed ground.
Burnsie came up and generously offered me the lead of the next steep pitch too. I set about the task feeling more than a bit intimidated by the obvious difficulties ahead. I climbed an icy ramp, established myself in the corner then started the hunt for gear. Eventually I managed to scrape out two semi- reasonable cracks which I melted a couple of angle pegs into. Thank God for pegs when climbing schist! Anyway, these weren't the braw-est pegs ever. Indeed, at home you'd maybe think twice of hanging your jaiket off them. They didn't inspire me at all, and I used the early season psyche-out excuse and climbed back down to empty my briefs.
Burnsie pulled the ropes, took the rack and set off again. I had shat out at an obviously committing move where the open book corner really overhung. He got up to my high point and composed himself again before cranking the technical crux of the route. He got a crucial high hook in the corner with the left tool, and did a scary pull up on a clump of frozen moss with the right. He then completed a balancey, intimidating foot traverse along a ledge leading right. He only said, 'Davie, put the f#@ camera away and watch me!' the once , I think!

Stuart Burns on the 2nd crux on Thor)

The rope paid out steadily through my belay plate and he went round the corner and out of sight. I had time to bask in the stunning clear view out across Rannoch Moor towards Glencoe. The rope came tight, and after following the hard corner moves I was surprised by a very steep turf wall to finish. The placements were good though, and looking down it felt like the whole corrie was below my heels. Another fantastic pitch. As I arrived at the belay, with the Winter sun starting to set out West, I could see how delighted Stuart was. He'd had it in his 'black book' for nearly ten years. What a first day of the season!

(18/01/06)